Visual Arts 101

by Rachel

On Thursday we attended a very special event. Our friend Jimmy, here teaching journalism as a Knight fellow, had his portrait painted. The unveiling was held in Nasaa’s studio. The room was full of her other paintings, bottles of wine, French snacks, bankers, ambassadors, friends, and babies. It was a salon like only UB could offer.

Before the sheet was lifted, we were given a list of acceptable and unacceptable responses.

The portrait was a big hit.

There was an image of his wife, Vandy, in his watch.

Nasaa charges $800 for a portrait, but adds $600 if you want hands. That is not prorated based on the number of fingers. But you can’t put a price on art, or a salon in Ulaanbaatar.

Then, on Friday we had a special lunch. We were invited to join Pete, the CEO of Khan Bank and our friend Niel who also works there, for lunch. Khan Bank was the employer of Ella the boxer and continues to be the source of many great Mongolian stories.

The bank itself is the former state-owned Ag Bank and was privatized several years ago. It is owned by a Japanese company and managed by Pete and a group of American (as Charlie likes to say, “extreme”) bankers.

Khan Bank has become very stable and profitable. It has also assembled the first corporate collection of modern Mongolian art, which is hung in the bank’s headquarters. It was not until the late 1980’s that artists here were able to paint their own things. Until then, there was a government-supported group of artists who turned out socialist-realist scenes. These paintings still grace the walls of most government buildings. Now, though, there is a much more vibrant scene.

After the tour, we went to the ger in front of the bank for lunch. It was built by students at the traditional arts college, and is beautiful. The khans adorn the walls and the furniture is beautifully carved. We enjoyed lunch very much: white fish from Lake Hovsgul, a squash casserole and many stories about what it takes to be a banker in Mongolia. In honor of the occasion Charlie wore his new ceremonial del.

When it was time to go we bid farewell to Pete and his marmot friend.